Ian Holmes

Mountains · People · Ideas

A life spent asking
what matters.

Exploring wild spaces, performance, and philosophy.

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Photograph: MIke Hopkins

A tangled web.

I write, photograph, ride, fly, climb, train, and explore.

Mountains, movement, and the questions that follow us home.

A little about me →

From the writing

Should

On the things we think we should do, and what we actually want.

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Ian Holmes

Writing

Training, philosophy, and life outside.

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The archive

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Philosophy & Life · Archive · 2024

An Invitation to Madness

The invitation. I invite you to turn off your device for a little while this week. To leave it at home when you leave the house. To step out of its rapturous glow, and out…

Philosophy & Life · Archive · 2024

Make Better Goals

Over the past few weeks, the topic of goals and motivation have been the mainstay of a lot of my conversations. These are topics that have been kicked around for about as long as humans…

Philosophy & Life · Archive · 2023

A Day on the Titanic

The biggest issue with the Titanic was that the collective belief held that it couldn’t sink. It was heralded as ‘An Unsinkable Ship’, and this narrative was so deeply believed that the attempts to evacuate…

Philosophy & Life · Archive · 2023

Bored and Lonely

The average smartphone owner unlocks their phone 180 times a day, and to be honest, I am often worse. That works out to being about once every six minutes. For me, this starts within a…

Philosophy & Life · Archive · 2023

You Know They Have You

You know that they have you, when the first thing that comes to mind when contemplating an adventure or an activity, is what you should buy. Let me know if this sounds familiar: This morning…

Philosophy & Life · Archive · 2023

Disconnected: Part 2

This is technically the third article in a discussion I have been having about why we are busy, and how we fill our time. The first article is ‘Why So Busy‘, the second was “Disconnected:…

Philosophy & Life · Archive · 2023

Disconnected

There is a tactile sensation of disconnection that comes with a phone for me. This could be a singular experience, perhaps a story I carry with me is set aside when the phone gets turned…

Philosophy & Life · Archive · 2023

Why So Busy?

Being busy as a badge of honor is something we have collectively normalized. The claim that we are ‘too busy’ to do something is one of the most common refutations of almost anything that could…

Philosophy & Life · Archive · 2023

Permission to Care

This month we started a challenge at the gym. Initially it was just a way to get a number of other people involved in a project I wanted to work on. Yet, it has grown…

Philosophy & Life · Archive · 2022

DNF

A few weeks ago I DNFd in a race for the first time in my life. It was, for me, the best possible outcome.   I sent the following to a friend afterwards:   “It…

Philosophy & Life · Archive · 2020

Not enough time

The greatest failure that we as humans make, is believing that we have enough time.As days and weeks rush by, I find myself wanting to fight all the more to be caught up in every…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2019

November 9th, 2019

I am still alive because of luck.  Not skill, not good decision making, not experience.  Beautiful brilliant luck. Whenever the hubris starts to build and thoughts of my own capacity surface, I try to suffocate…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2019

November 1st, 2019

I would like to not need the risk of it.  It would be nice if the harshness of extremes didn’t demand as much shadow and dark.  Yet the harsh light of those high points demands…

Philosophy & Life · Archive · 2019

Reflections: Strength Training

How do I become more in my body while training?Strength fundamentals have little to do with actually lifting weight.  There is a lot more to be said for knowing where your body is in space,…

Philosophy & Life · Archive · 2019

Reflections: Why do we climb?

Why do we climb? This is a question that is often examined only lightly, and the answers to it are perhaps inadequate to laying a ground work for the central question that I am continually…

Philosophy & Life · Archive · 2019

Reflections: Understanding Pain

Reflections: Understanding Pain Pain, /pān/, noun 1.  physical suffering or discomfort caused by illness or injury. “she’s in great pain” I spend much of my time working with people in pain.  Injuries and illness are unprejudiced; making pain a…

Philosophy & Life · Archive · 2019

Reflections: What is the point?

article on how people seem to be training obsessively and are losing sight of having fun. Now I agree that sometimes it is good to just train for the emotional release, or for the honesty of…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2019

Training: Horizontal Pulling

PLAY Which planes should you pull in?We neglect horizontal pulling. When new clients are introduced, when possible we start them with some form of a horizontal row on rings, and then as they get stronger…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2019

Training: Zercher Deadlift

PLAY Prayers are all that get these up.So I am back on a hunt for a triple body weight dead lift. At around 175lbs I need to pull 525lbs off the floor, which will not…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2019

Training: Hand Strength and Weighted Rope Climbs

Weighted Rope ClimbsIt seems a little over the top that I always talk about how much stuff hurts, and perhaps it is just that I am soft and weak… but climbing our particular ropes with…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2019

Training: Fear

How do you train fear? I wrote this in 2011.  It still is something I sit and ponder.  How do we best tackle the world of training our heads, perhaps the item that most separates…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2019

Bachar Training: Climbing Focused Training

The Carny: I am building a bachar ladder The British Spy: That’s old school training. The Carny: ExactlySo I built a Bachar ladder this weekend. It is one of the old school training items, which…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2019

Building Active Shoulder Flexibility

Flexibility is an expression of strength in a full range of movement.I have recently been doing a lot of work looking at rebuilding and strengthening my shoulder girdle.  It seems that people everywhere are dealing…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2019

(p)Rehab: Stretching the Shoulder Girdle

Passive Stretching after Tissue ReleaeI commented a while ago on the notion that you need to do some passive stretching after doing soft tissue work on the musculature of the shoulder girdle. However I have…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2019

Bachar Training: Static Strength and Lock Offs

Ladder Training: The BasicsAgain from the archives.  June 26th, 2012.  These ladders are rad. So about a week ago [Or two or three] I posted an article on my new toy. However due to some…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2019

(P)Rehab: Foam Rolling and Point Release

Foam Rolling and Ball WorkThis one is from the archives.  May 15th, 2012.  Still relevant now. Soft tissue work at its most basic. This is a quick video that is going up to ensure that…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2019

(P)Rehab: Forearms and hand pain

This post came out of the Irrational Fitness archives, having first been published on July 13th, 2012.  It and a number of other posts seemed worth salvaging from the archives, so here it is. PLAY…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2019

Vertical Jump Training

This post came out of the Irrational Fitness archives, having first been published in May of 2012. It seemed worth saving given the results it got. Vert TrainingSo over a year ago now we built…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2019

(P)Rehab: Basic Stretching

This post came out of the Irrational Fitness archives, having first been published on May 15, 2012 @ 15:46.  It and a number of other posts seemed worth salvaging from the archives, so here it…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2019

(P)Rehab: Elbow Pain

This post came out of the Irrational Fitness archives, having first been published on May 15, 2012.  It and a number of other posts seemed worth salvaging from the archives, so here it is. Elbow…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2019

(p)Rehab: Shoulder Rehab 101

This post came out of the Irrational Fitness archives, having first been published on May 10, 2010.  It and a number of other posts seemed worth salvaging from the archives, so here it is. Shoulder…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2018

August 15th, 2018

It is an irony that impermanence makes us enjoy a simple thing all the more. I doubt that one could possibly find a way to stay in that cusp of uncertainty for a prolonged time,…

Mountain Stories · Archive · 2018

Loss

Loss I keep losing people to the mountains. This morning I skimmed a list of high profile climbers that we as a tribe lost in 2017. I had had the opportunity to meet about a…

Mountain Stories · Archive · 2017

Eternity

Eternity There is perhaps some irony, that prior to my long hiatus from posting anything, the last thing I posted about was this very line. If you want to give a read to my last…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2016

Climbing Training

This post came out of the Irrational Fitness archives, having first been published on April 28th, 2012.  I updated it and modified it a little, but on the whole I believe the statements still hold…

Mountain Stories · Archive · 2016

Chasing Eternity

Two years ago I went out to try and ride a line I had been looking at for a few seasons.  In the end, I ‘failed’ at getting my objective, but instead ended up riding…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2016

#puckerfactor

(As always, click on the image, sit with it for a while.  It has a lot more value if you do that.)   I am a firm believer in the rather idiomatic expression that you…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2016

Telling a better story.

I want to tell you a better story.  More than just a single photo which is looked at then quickly forgotten.  This is the problem today, we are deluged with noise.  Images aren’t given the…

Mountain Stories · Archive · 2015

Reflections: Living with consequence

Yesterday was the first one of the back country days this season where I spent a lot of time in the no fall zone. I ended my riding last season with the 3/4 couloir, and…

Mountain Stories · Archive · 2015

Reflections: The Abyss

So a quick side note: this wasn’t written with any intended audience. However, some experiences fill me with an urge to write. This is the result. Some of my friends have offered me a mix…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2015

Getting in the first day of the season

So the summer snow hunt continues with the claim for the first riding day of the season on September 8th. Russel and I headed out to Mt. Hector to see if we could find any…

Mountain Stories · Archive · 2015

My 14/15 Couloir Hit List

At the beginning of this last season I figured I needed a list of my ‘top’ couloirs in the area around YYC.  A bunch of them I had ridden before, some were nothing more than…

Mountain Stories · Archive · 2015

Chephren Couloir: Jumping into a line

This was a rather amusing day. Check out the story over here if you want to see photos. Again, for those who want text and no photos… ““I know this is going to sound crazy”,…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2015

Authenticity

Full Ascension edition, published 2019-02-17. The earlier recovered version is preserved below.Failure is a part of training.Failure is a part of training. Not flailing attempts at mediocrity, but legitimate work that pushes a person to…

Mountain Stories · Archive · 2015

Smuts

I yell for him to keep going past me to the boulder lower down the slope.  He shakes his head, as if surprised at hearing my voice, a quick glance towards me, and a strange…

Mountain Stories · Archive · 2015

Lassitude

For the record, I am not an adrenaline junky. That is often what people seem to assume this is about. If it was that easy, well then it would be an easy fix. For the…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2015

Fixing the Muscle-Up: Wrist Strength and Stronger Triceps

Full Ascension edition, published 2015-04-07. The earlier recovered version is preserved below.A muscle-up is a transition.Somehow a muscle-up went from being the way a gymnast got on top of the rings, to becoming an exercise…

Mountain Stories · Archive · 2015

Caldron Peak Couloir

So this past season I have been gunning to get in 200 days which has meant a lot fewer posts up here on Irrational Fitness. This of course means that cool things haven’t been happening.…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2014

The Edge of Existence

Disclaimer: I don’t want a debate on safety.  If you don’t like reading about people pushing their limits, or if you want to have an argument about doing things that are safe, that is fine;…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2013

Sleep, Recovery, and Exceptional Performance

So our science around the miserable things that happen to our bodies without enough sleep is pretty good. I will proceed as I often do by not actually providing any real references to the material…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2012

(p)Rehab: The Issue of Thumbs

  I started working with a client a couple of months ago who had (what seems to be more and more common) extremely limiting hand pain.  The initial success in dealing with pain that had…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2012

One Arm Pull-up: Pre-reqs

  I wrote an article on one arm pull-ups a few months ago where I mentioned I might write and film some more stuff on perfecting the one arm pull-up. However as the snow has…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2012

Some Older Backcountry Training Regimes

So another good day in the back country had me thinking that it was time to start putting up some more workouts for those out there who are in for long slogs at altitude. We…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2012

Mixed Training: Pressing out of a lock off

It galls me that #machavok actually beat me to this one; I had experimented last season with a number of exercise variations that would help work on pressing up and above tools, but never came…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2012

Training: Perfecting the muscle-up

Somehow in the past few years the muscle up has gained some renown as an exercise, as opposed to just a way to get up onto the rings and then do something useful. Sadly as…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2012

The Elusive One Arm Pull-up

So I was standing around Friday being painted before a show. My phone buzzes. I ignore it. Then it buzzes again, and again. I apologize to the guy doing the painting and grab my phone…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2012

Climbing Training: The Bachar Ladder

The Carny: I am building a bachar ladder The British Spy: That’s old school training. The Carny: Exactly So I built a Bachar ladder this weekend. It is one of the old school training items,…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2012

Motivation for Training

I have run the the full range of reasons for training. I have found my motivation in appearance, in improving lifts, in simply proving to people that I was willing to train every day of…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2012

Eclectic Training

I was recently contacted and asked if I could give someone a run down of all the training that I do. I put them off. Not because I was terrified that some deep seated secrets…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2012

Pebble Wrestling: Bonsai Rocks

Editor’s note: This small project eventually grew into something much bigger. Mike Hopkins and I went on to finish The Alberta Bouldering Guide, taking the idea well beyond these first explorations in the Bow Valley.So…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2012

Morning Rowing Saved by Coffee

Oh Mornings… There are a host of benefits to training in the morning. They will not be mentioned here. Rather I am going to highlight just how awful it is to get up some mornings…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2012

Training: Two Finger Front Lever

One Finger Lever Training I have been looking at some intense functional core training recently and trying to determine how much hand leverage has a role in decreasing stability. On the whole the front levers…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2012

Training: Pinch Grip Strength

Pinch Grip Training Having a strong pinch grip can often make a previously impossible tufa climb into a jug haul. Then there are the host of times that you can get a thumb catch, and…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2012

Training: Moving Off of Crimps

V10+ Crimp TraverseWatch Crimp Board on YouTube ↗Watch The Carny Crimp Traverse on YouTube ↗ The training insight of the week had been brewing for the past week or two, but was finally realized at…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2012

Training: Monos

Mono TrainingWatch Mono climbing training on YouTube ↗ So I was presented with some interesting information on individual finger strength that I have gone and tested out in the past week or two. The two…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2012

Training: Tendon Training 2010

Intense Finger TrainingWatch Intense finger and grip training on YouTube ↗ This video didn’t get shot until after about three weeks training these pull-ups, not the most encouraging statement, but it took a while for…

Training & the Body · Archive · 2012

Training Weights

The beauty of free weights There is something terrifyingly honest about weight plates. You can delude yourself with a lot of the machines in a gym, with most of them removing about 5% of the…

· Archive · 2012

Loving Food…

People Who Think They Love Food Stolen from Forcing Evolution, the book which will never be finished I find myself sitting across from yet another person who is in abysmal shape, we have just spent…

Philosophy & Life · Substack

Should

Philosophy & Life · Substack

The Softness Trade

Philosophy & Life · Substack

Forgetting Words

Training & the Body · Substack

Make it Hard

Training & the Body · Substack

Your Body Is Trying to Save Your Life (By Making You Fat)

Philosophy & Life · Substack

What Matters More?

Recovered writing, articles from Ascension, and a selection from Substack. View the Substack archive ↗

Ian Holmes · Personal archive
Ian Holmes

Photography

People, preparation, and life in motion.

Browse all / recent photographs →
Ian Holmes · Photography
Ian Holmes

Things made / things in progress

Projects

Different forms of the same interests:
movement, mountains, and people.

Ian training at Ascension

01 / The space

Ascension

A place to train.
A reason to gather.

Ascension is the gym I run in Calgary, bringing training, rehabilitation, and community into one space. It’s where much of my work with movement and performance happens, alongside the everyday work of helping people feel and move better.

Visit Ascension
An ice climber ascending a frozen pillar

02 / The programming

Ascension App

The work, beyond the gym.

The app brings my training programs beyond the walls of Ascension. A home for people building strength, capacity, and the ability to do more of the things they care about.

Explore the programming
A climber working a boulder in the forest

03 / The book

Alberta Bouldering

A record of the places we climb.

A guidebook to the areas and problems of Alberta. A practical companion for finding your way around, and a record of the places, people, and climbing that make up the province’s bouldering.

Explore the guidebook
Ski tracks winding through a snowy mountain face

04 / The community

Backcountry YYC

Good days, shared.

A home for mountain experiences and the people we share them with. Getting outside, exploring, and making space for shared adventure.

Visit Backcountry YYC

05 / A smaller experiment

How to Climb 5.13

A question turned into an online climbing test. Another way of exploring climbing and performance.

Take the online test
Ian Holmes · Projects
Ian Holmes
Ian Holmes wearing a red jacket, with a camera over his shoulder

A little context

Here for the moment.

I’m based in Calgary, where I run Ascension. My work brings together training, rehabilitation, and community; my time outside takes me into the mountains on a splitboard or under a paraglider.

This is a home for the writing, photographs, and projects that come out of those experiences.

Explore the projects →
Ian Holmes · Personal archive